In Rural Arizona, a Gay Couple Built a Haven for Nature Lovers

Whether you’re looking for a remote romantic getaway or somewhere to unplug, reconnect with the great outdoors and escape from the insanity, it can be tricky to find a place in rural Arizona that is LGBTQ+-friendly.

But southeast of Tucson in Hereford — a bucolic desert town next to the San Pedro Riparian Preserve — is Casa de San Pedro B&B, owned by Patrick Dome and Karl Schmitt, life partners for 44 years. 

The two bought the property sight unseen in 2002 as a retirement business and moved down from Seattle. They’ve nurtured a chill haven for birders, hikers, bikers and anyone looking for a breather from city life. 

Although they don’t market specifically to the gay community, Schmitt says their inn attracts people who are accepting, friendly, and worldly. 

“We’re really lucky; we get really wonderful guests,” he said. “Our guests tend to be on the liberal end of the spectrum because they’re interested in nature. They’re not isolationists stuck in their own little niche.”

Schmitt said 50 percent of their guests return to visit (the average rate for a B&B is 10 percent).

“It’s a wonderful getaway: Relaxing, rejuvenating, away from the chaos of the world,” he said.

A Hub For Bird Nerds

Beyond being gay-owned and operated, Casa de San Pedro B&B has a slew of attractions.

First and foremost, it’s nestled next to the San Pedro River and is a destination for birders from around the country and the world. It’s also close to other popular birding sites, including Ramsey Canyon and Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary.

Dome and Schmitt have documented 335 species in the vicinity. They keep 12 feeders up year-round and install 14 hummingbird feeders from March through November for migration, when up to 15 species pass through the state.

“Bird seed and bird feeders are a major expenditure,” Schmitt said, laughing. “A lot of sugar water.”

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Casa de San Pedro—with rates averaging around $215-230 a night, depending on the day of the week and season—typically fills months in advance during peak bird migration months, March through May, as well as in August. But the owners say winter also offers robust birding, including the opportunity to see thousands of migrating Sandhill cranes within a 30-minute drive.

If you’re not a birder, the inn is worth a trip for the vibes alone. 

Situated on 36 acres, it features 10 rooms and a suite plus access to the house, which is tastefully decorated with Mexican tile and hand-carved furnishings.

The common areas feature overstuffed sofas, a fireplace, a TV (none of the guest rooms except for the suite have them), an electronic piano, a coffee and tea bar, and a daily array of homemade pies. The grounds include a serene pool and spa, and you can borrow binoculars.

The owners also pride themselves on their sustainable practices, such as electrical vehicle chargers, water conservation measures and solar panels, which they said cut their electric bill from $1,150 to $78 a month.

Go For The Mountains, Stay For the Pie

Joyce Bolinger and Lavina Tomer of Tucson, who have been together 22 years and married in 2018, have been regulars since a couple of years after Casa de San Pedro opened.

“They do make it feel very much like it’s your home,” Bolinger said. “It’s like if you had some wealthy relatives who have a beautiful place in the country…. You have all the comforts you could ask for.”

She admits she’s not as much of a birder as Tomer, but has become more enthused about wildlife.

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“There’s a pond with bullfrogs,” Bolinger said, and she raved about the bat houses. “One year, we went, and there were thousands of bats that would come out at sunset.” 

She added, “You don’t have to be a birder to appreciate the environment.”

Bolinger said she held a fundraiser at the inn several years ago for an LGBTQ+ center in Tucson. “It makes me happy that it’s so LGBTQ-friendly,” Bolinger said.

However, staying at a B&B can be uncomfortable if you’re not outgoing or concerned about other guests’ acceptance of you. Bolinger usually doesn’t love sharing breakfast with strangers, she noted, but over the years has met the “nicest people” at Casa de San Pedro.

“I haven’t sat at a table with anyone that I haven’t enjoyed,” Bolinger said. 

She also praised the food.

Schmitt is the culinary wiz behind the multi-course breakfasts, which Bolinger rates as “fabulous,” and holiday dinners, which they offer to guests on Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day for about $65 plus tax and tip.

Dome, meanwhile, is the pie guy. Guests' favorites, he said, include pecan, strawberry rhubarb and chocolate ganache.

“They weren’t that good when I first started,” Dome admits, adding humbly, “I got a little better at it fast.”

“Live and Let Live” 

Surprisingly, neither of the Casa de San Pedro owners had a background in hospitality when they purchased the B&B. 

Schmitt worked for the U.S. Air Force as a healthcare administrator and later founded his own consulting firm, developing computer systems for healthcare. Dome was in retail, selling fine jewelry, and later joined Schmitt’s firm as a project manager.

Dome and Schmitt have become integral to the Cochise County community through their advocacy for conservation and promotion of local historic sites and businesses, Bolinger noted. They have extensive knowledge of the area and its attractions, from birding sites to restaurant recommendations.

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Schmitt said they’ve been welcomed and accepted by local denizens, noting that people in the area have a “live and let live” philosophy.

The attitude tends to be, “leave me alone, and I’ll leave you alone,” he said. “Just be honest about who you are, and we’re good.”

Casa de San Pedro B&B
8933 S. Yell Lane, Hereford, AZ 85615
bedandbirds@gmail.com
520-366-1300